ROUTE SETTING
FOR ALL GYMS
Team: The North Face | Re:white out | Tengu`s
Hi, I'm EGOR KRYACHKOV
I started setting when I was 16 y.o. My coach gave me an opportunity to set in his small climbing gym.
From that time I fell in love with route setting. A few years later I set my first commercial and then official competition.
- Now I have more than 10 years of experience in setting
- Head setter of climbing gym for more than 5 years
- Head Setter at commercial and International competitions
- Built 5 gyms in Moscow​
I love solving puzzles while setting. I'm trying to create something new every time. Often I take an inspiration from rocks. Nature has already set a lot of cool stuff.
I also want to help to connect owners of climbing gyms with route setters to improve their work.


RECENT COMP SETTING

04-05.01.2023
- Bloc spot Murtal | Competition setting without finals
The idea of setting was to create easy problems in competition style.


25-26.02.2023

- Landesmeisterschaft adults and kids championship | Competition setting with finals


22.02.2023
- Gravitition | Kids competition in Einstein Recklinghausen

SPORT ACHIEVEMENTS

- I was in the National Team for 7 years in bouldering and 3 years for lead climbing
- Winner and vice-champion of Russian championships in bouldering and lead climbing
- Participant of two world championships in Innsbruck and Hachioji, and World Cups

TIMELINE

- From 2006
Started climbing

- From 2010
First steps in setting at local gym
In a few years I fell in love in climbing and spent a lot of time in the gym. My coach found me a part-time job - setting. Since that time I could climb for free and also had found motivation for participating in competitions to look for new ideas from competition boulders

- From 2013 till 2015
Head setter of RockZona climbing gym
After 3 years of setting, local gym gave me a full-time job - head setter. It was my first serious setting job. After this I started to set a lot of local and Moscow competitions.

- From 2016 till now - Climbing coach
In Moscow we don’t have a lot of climbing gyms, so it's pretty hard to have one job. A lot of climbers have a main job, e.g. setter and a second one - coaching. After finishing Moscow Aviation Institute I stared working as a Coach.

- From 2017 till 2020 - Head setter at BigWall Climbing Gym
In 2016 the first BigWall was closed due to city reconstruction works, we spent one year to find a new better place for climbing center. I designed and built 3 new BigWall gyms in 2017.

- From 2020 till Now
Owner of climblock.ru - a climbing school in Russia
In Russia we have a lot of rocks, from south to north. I have always wanted to show these places to all climbers. And in 2020 I founded a climbing school. Me and my coaches are training climbers in Moscow and organising training camps on rocks around Russia and the world.
Also I have started to organise workshops for climbers. The idea is simple: I set 5-7 problems in the same style, but different grades. Climbers can try from the easiest grades to the hardest. It's great for understanding moves and to improve technical skills.

-From 2021 till 2023
Sport director of Tengus climbing gym


-From 2022 - moved to Slovenia
Routesetter for regular and competition setting


TEXT ME
Made on
Tilda